What do you mean replace my Queen?

I want to go over wood repair, because in this time of great need to save, it feels like something that needs to be discussed.  Wood rot does not necessarily mean that whatever it is part of needs to be replaced.  These days it may be able to be fixed.  Not everyone is aware of material technology and how far it has come.  Wood repair is more possible than most realize.  Things can be saved that most general contractors would try to sell the homeowner on replacement for several reasons.  A new one could mean more income for their project.  A new one likely requires less craftsmanship.  A new one is the simplest solution.  Do not hesitate to ask if it can be saved.  I repeat.  Do not hesitate to ask if it can be saved.  If they say no or even maybe but it is not a good idea, don’t disregard their opinion but get a second opinion.  When you get a second opinion make sure that the company or contractor specializes in Epoxy repair, wood repair, or restoration.  Some contractors just don’t do it at all and will never say yes to such a request.  For your second opinion make sure that it will be someone interested in repairs rather than remodeling. 

Here is how I saved some posts that hold up a porch.  Maybe you are skilled enough to even do it yourself, if you feel ambitious enough.  It isn’t terribly expensive and you do not need to have any very expensive equipment.  Give it a try and save yourself lots of cash and the aesthetic of your home. 

First I had to determine whether or not the structural integrity of the columns were still intact. The rot was awful looking as most rot is, but these had areas where the wood was completely gone and small animals could move in if so inclined.  This was actually a plus for me because I could get down and look inside at the interior of the pillar.  The structure of it was hollow.  There was a support wrapped by a custom angled tongue and groove wrap that had been turned into a decorative cylinder.  The exterior was rotting from the bottom up, which probably what you would find on your own if you have columns outside your home on a porch or under a doorway awning.  It is where snow sits.  It is where rain pools.  Makes sense right?

Since inside it was well protected from the elements and was perfectly intact, I proceeded to estimate the cost of repairing the rotten wood exterior without any replacement or jacking up of the porch.  The homeowner was very pleased immediately that four new 12 foot tall 16” diameter posts were not needed and that we wouldn’t have to disassemble the supports that held up the thousands of pounds of roof above.  Who wouldn’t be thrilled?  See most people would see holes in pillars and rotten wood and automatically think, “My porch is going to collapse.”   This is an easy sell for a remodeling contractor to remove and rebuild a porch for twenty thousand dollars that won’t look like your pretty old porch anymore either.  What if it were one of the lovely Queen Anne porches with the delicate lattice work?  It will be newer and not match your Victorian, colonial or craftsman style home.

The next step was doing the work.  First drilling and picking with a chisel.  All that rotten wood has to go.  If it is soft and mushy or crumbles away get rid of it.  You will be making holes bigger, which I admit seems a little scary and destructive at first, but have faith dear homeowner.  You are not doing any damage that has not already been done by the weather.  Pick it away until you find something solid.  When the wood actually feels like wood, then stop because that is still like new.  Then with the drill, a small one like an eighth inch or so, not critical, but not much is needed, pepper the new surface.  Peppering is just going in a tiny bit from all different directions in a consistent pattern of close pock marks so that the end result looks like pepper in a pepper shaker; spotty and even.  This gives the open wood “tooth” for the epoxy to grab onto which will insure that it will have more bonding surface and a more difficult time separating after seasons of hot and cold have their impact on the space in between them.  I have preferences of materials that I like for the longest lasting results, but what really matters is that you use a good primer sealer on the new bare wood even in the peppered holes.  Rubber gloves are a very good idea when handling epoxy, not only is it slightly hazardous, but it will turn your fingers black for days if you don’t cover your skin.  The best wood repair products are usually nastier to work with and come in two parts that you have to mix at the time of use.  The nastier to work with the better the product is usually a good rule of thumb.  Its a bummer but a sincere truth.  Mix the epoxy thoroughly.  If you do not do a good job mixing it will not hold together or bond with the wood properly.  Follow the mixing instructions very well and exceed them.  I have learned this the hard way.  Apply the epoxy where there should be wood and build it up a little bit on the large side so that you have excess to remove when shaping away any imperfections.  Epoxy has a set time that can be up to days long.  It does not dry.  It is a chemical reaction, hence the mixing.  The reaction is accompanied by a hardening that takes place.  It is impacted by temperature.  A heat lamp may speed it up some.  Outside in the colder weather, it can triple.  You’ll know when it is completely hardened by the sanding.  If you cut into it with a chisel or try to sand it and it feels tacky or sticky in the least bit, it needs more time.  If it is dry and comes apart in a fine dry powder and does not immediately load up your sandpaper with gunk, it is safe to say that it is completely bonded. 

Now this is the fun part for me.  Carve the shape of your old pillar into the new epoxy using chisels, rotary tools, sand paper, or sanding machine for the desired shapes.  Take extra care not to carve away too much or you will be adding more epoxy again and waiting that bonding time again as well; no big deal really since the structure is not ruined but an annoyance that is certainly not desired.  After you are finished shaping and you are pleased with the results of your newly filled and complete looking columns, go over it with your primer sealer again.  Cover all the newly shaped and sanded epoxy and the wood around it once again to seal them together.  It makes no difference for this particular project whether or not you are going back with the same color or choosing a new color, but if you are going back with the same color make sure to overlap the old paint by feathering in from wet to dry with a dry brush or you may end up with a slight but distinct color or texture difference.  Usually I like to go in with new paint all the way to a distinct line to avoid this, but your discretion is probably satisfactory.  To the untrained and not knowing eye, you will have what looks like brand new pillars after this small tedious project and the next contractor that comes by won’t even consider mentioning a new porch.

Bassinet Rocker 3 Finished Photos

When applying a finish, you do not want dust from another project floating around and tainting the beauty of your hard work.  I always try my best to finish more than one project at a time without any new projects being started, so that they can all stay nice and clean.   This way I don’t have a clear satin finish getting mucked up by my sawdust from the next project on the list.  I mean that would just be stupid, right?  So in a relatively dust free area I applied a Jacobean stain.  For some projects I prefer a gel stain, but for this one a liquid was sufficient.  Liquids are less flexible, but much easier, and since this was all newly sanded bare wood, the simplicity of the liquid stain was perfectly acceptable. 

After allowing the stain to fully soak in and air out some I applied the first coat of a satin poly finish.  The second coat was, as usual, much quicker and better coverage to apply.  I let coat two dry completely for two days and lightly sanded before applying the final coat.  This smoothes out any little bubbly imperfections that may have risen out of the wood under the surface, removes any little dust particles and flattens the texture just a little bit.  Sanding with a light paper also gives the final coat tooth to grip itself into, which keeps the finish lasting longer down the road.  The third and final coat went on clean and smooth.